As part of East Gondwana, the land mass of Madagascar split from Africa approximately 160 million years ago; the island of Madagascar--the fourth-largest island in the world--was created when it separated from the Indian subcontinent 80 to 100 million years ago. This explains the unique presence of unusual flora and fauna in the island nation. Madagascar is home to 5% of the world's plant and animal species; of that 5%, more than 80% are endemic to Madagascar. Of the 10,000 plants native to Madagascar, 90% are found nowhere else in the world.
Lemurs -- all 32 species -- were found nowhere else in the wild except Madagascar. A small number were transferred to the Comoros islands (including Mayotte) during the past few years.
From the ship, we transferred by tender to Nosy Be, where we made another transfer to motorized outrigger skiffs
for the trip to Nosy Kumba to visit its black lemur colony. Bonuses were electric green chameleons, children with painted faces,
a broad sandy beach, tortoises, diligent test-taking students, wood carvers, and vendors of
beautiful cutwork embroidered linens.
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The tortoise was nearly the size of my patio table and as the ranger touched it, it rose and fell as though its legs were on hydraulics. Whether it was a flat-tailed or a radiated I could not determine. Both are endangered. Over the past few years, both lemurs and tortoises have been plundered for pet and culinary markets. Armed bands, financed by foreign timber traders, have roamed national parks harvesting valuable hardwoods including rosewood and ebonies. Without support from the central government — or international agencies that pulled aid following the 2009 coup (see notes below)—there has been no one to stop the carnage.
Another evidence of Madagascar's difference from African tribes and countries is this characteristic: Madagascar was initially settled by seafarers from Inodonesia; the language which endures even today is Malagasy. Ignorant of that language, we tried others; English worked somewhat; French worked better. The Malagasy language is not related to nearby African languages; instead it is the westernmost member of the Malayo-Polynesian branch of the Austronesian language family and related to the Malayo-Polynesian languages of Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, and very closely with the Barito group of languages spoken in Borneo.
The political scene has been contentious: Early tribal kingdoms. Abolishing slavery in exchange for British military and financial influence in the 1800s (including decades of conversions to Presbyterianism, Congregationalism and Anglicanism). A queen's decree prohibiting Christianity, with subsequent death of 150,000 Christians. Annexed in 1896 by France after a bloody invasion. The Malagasy Republic was proclaimed on October 14, 1958, as an autonomous state within the French Community. A period of provisional government ended with the adoption of a constitution in 1959 and full independence on June 26, 1960. A 2009 coup overturned the president and Andry Rajoelina became president. The European Union, amongst other international entities, has refused to recognize the new government, due to it being installed by force.
Madagascar is the world's largest producer and exporter of vanilla. Other production and export centers
on sugarcane, cloves, cocoa, rice, cassava (tapioca), beans, bananas, peanuts and livestock products. But vanilla is key:
in 1985 when Coca-Cola switched to New Coke which used much less vanilla,
Madagascar's economy took a marked downturn. All was again well when Coke Classic returned.
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We visited two classrooms; in one a geometry exam was underway with problems written in French on the
chalkboard. It seemed a bit cheeky to interrupt, but the school teachers had specifically invited us.
Children sang Frere Jacques to us in French and English. Very hot! At least 109 and 100% humidity.
Drank bottle after bottle of water and delighted to see our Discovery crew member JackNeil handing out
even more at the Nosy Be tender dock.
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