Mozambique

The Maputo, Mozambique harbor is the center of country's economy; main exports are coal, cotton, sugar, chromite, sisal,copra, and hardwoods. In addition, manufacture in the area covers cement, pottery, furniture, shoes, and rubber. There's a large aluminium smelter. The town originally developed around Portuguese fortifications developed from late 1700s onward. We visited the fortress of 1787 with its bulky ramparts, cannons, and also murals and sculptures added in modern times. The Portuguese ruled until Mozambique gained independence in 1975, followed by a brutal civil war from 1977-1992 when 1 million were killed, 1.7 million fled and became refugees, and 4 million were displaced. The eventual silver lining was development of a new constitution in 1990, economic reforms in '92, and establishment of a a bicameral legislature. In 1996, Mozambique became part of the British Commonwealth, the only non-British colony to do so. It's still really handy to speak some Portuguese!

Out of all the violence, artisans have collected weapons that were confiscated and parted them out to create art works, one of which we'd seen -- a tree of life -- in the British Museum; we saw more at the French cultural center here in Maputo.

The railway station-- used in the film Blood Diamonds as a location -- was designed in 1910 by Gustave Eiffel (after his fall from grace in the Panama canal scandal) and bears the mark of his genius, especially in decorative steel elements. He also conceived the design for the landmark Steel House.

Mozambique and Angola are the most disadvantaged of African countries. Today's literacy rate, for example, is 48% (compared to 86% in South Africa). The rate of AIDS/HIV is at 12.5% (less than South Africa's). The country is without lawyers and doctors for the most part. Unemployment stands at 21% and 85% of arable land remains uncultivated. Traditional ancestor worship remains strong beneath an overlay of Christianity for much of the population. Our guides Talu and Yvonne, together with driver Pedro, noted that many go to church on Sunday morning, then later in day gather with traditional spiritualists. And, with the lack of doctors, most have no choice but to turn to traditional spiritual healers.

The National Art Museum includes several large canvases by world-renowned Malangatana, considered tops among African artists. CLICK HERE to see a collection of some images of his art. He's best known for dramatic paintings, but works in diverse media to produce drawings, murals, ceramics, sculptures, poetry and music. His works are usually commentaries on the historical and political events in Mozambique: colonialism, the anti-colonial struggle, civil war, independence. Behind the art museum are several small woodcarvers--some in small workshops, some working out-of-doors.

The lively Mercado Central has fresh fish, fruits and vegetables, crafts, household staples...even hair extensions! Cashews abound--roasted, salted, plain, any which way and any where. The number two export of the country, cashews sell for about US $3.20 per pound. Seafood platters heaped high were served at seaside restaurant -- the vegetarian platters were also huge and varied. The Museu de História Natural features stuffed animals, birds and reptiles with full-size models of elephants and emphasizes Darwin's evolution theories.